This product has forever changed the introduction of CO2 into an aquarium.Used for CO2 injection for a freshwater planted aquarium, or a Calcium reactor in a saltwater application. We guarantee that nowhere on this planet can you find a BETTER or MORE PRECISE regulator! This is OUR baby, we built it, tested it, and patent it. The problem of "dumping" is completely eliminated with this regulator. Dumping is always a problem with ALL OTHER regulators which utilize a needle valve. Simply because, a needle valve relies on the pressure on both sides of it for it's accuracy. So, even though you have it set at a certain "bubble rate", once the pressure in the cylinder (or the outside atmospheric pressure) changes, so will the amount of CO2 that passes through the needle valve. This is why it is physically impossible for any and ALL other regulators that rely on a needle valve to ever be consistent. Our regulator does not have a needle valve, but instead, it has an electronic valve that opens and closes in a fraction of a second, (each "opening and closing" equates to a bubble) and, due to the fact that it is "electronic" the "bubble rate" can NEVER change. Once it is set, it can never vary more than +/- 1/1,000=of a second. The low pressure gauge goes up to 45 lbs but it can be measured up to 60 lbs.
Polyurethane tubing: CO2 Resistant Tubing (10' length)
Polyurethane tubing: CO2 Resistant Tubing (10 foot length)(diameter perfect fit for all Co2 accessories) Compatible with "John Guest" style fittings and checkvalve (below) (this is NOT hard plastic "RO" style tubing)
PERMA-SEAL / O-RING SEAL (ABC )(CO2 Regulator to Cylinder)
After years of experience with CO2 systems, we discovered why consistent "bubble counts" are, most of the time, impossible. Here's why: ALL checkvalves, even expensive ones, have a "high crp" or "crack pressure" rating (the pressure at which they actually release) and/or a very inconsistent "crp" pressure" rating. We actually took a "caliper" and measured the CO2 tubing at different times and what we found is this: The tubing is actually a "long balloon"... When pressure builds in the tubing (because of a high crp rating of the CV) CO2 is "stored up" in the tubing, until the CV opens. Then it releases, then it build up again, and more or less "cycles". What you experience is a very inconsistent bubble count.
Another problem that been a major issue is "water corrosion" "mineral buildup" (even worse: saltwater corrosion!) No checkvalve that we have used or tested in the past seems to last very long when used with saltwater. (even stainless steel springs/check balls corrode)
This Checkvalve is custom manufactured to our exact specifications. It is specifically made for us, with a "ball" that won't corrode and a spring material that it more corrosion resistant than stainless steel.(The actual materials used are proprietary)
- 4 lbs crack pressure (any less is not enough to prevent from sticking open) - Made with a spring that is more corrosion resistant than stainless steel! - Made with a check ball that is more corrosion resistant than stainless steel! - Units are not "glued" when manufactured which allows disassembly for cleaning. - Do not confuse with similar looking cv's. These cost much more to manufacture... there is a difference!
Maintenance: Even though these checkvalves are highly resistant to corrosion, they still need regular cleaning due to mineral deposits that accumulate and cause the checkball to stick partially open.
If the unit sticks open, water (or even worse, saltwater) will backflow in to the regulator causing damage.
How to clean:Unscrew the 2 halves (carefully with 2 pairs of pliers being careful not to crush). As you disassemble the unit, take note of where the pieces go. Soak all of the pieces in CLR to dissolve the mineral deposits. Ensure all pieces are clean then rinse and reassemble.
How to Test: To perform a leak test, simply reverse the checkvalve, set the regulator on 12 lbs, run it in a cup of water (while reversed) and watch for bubbles.